TOTO Neorest RH Install Walkthrough
If you don’t do this properly, you will completely ruin your new TOTO Neorest RH and you’ll have to get a replacement.
Hello everyone my name is Daniel Johnson, i’m the owner of many bidets.com. Today we are going to talk about installing the Toto Neorest RH. Here you can see the unit completely installed, we’re going to start from absolutely ground one, all the way through to completely installed like you see here.
The tools that you’ll need is a number three Phillips, a number two Phillips, a drill with an assortment of drill bits, a level and a crescent wrench. Everything else that you need comes with, except for the wax ring and the flange hardware; which comes with your original flange, which should already be installed in the floor well before the toilet is put in. Other than that, everything comes with.
We’ll walk through the entire process and show you how easy it is to install a Toto Neorest RH. Here is the hardware that comes with the Toto Neorest RH, that’s needed for the bowl installation portion. We install the bowl and then we install the seat. There are a few items here that are not included. These items on the far side, come with your flange that you purchased from the hardware store when you installed the drain hole, so you’ll need those. Your wax ring or in our scenario we’re going to use a better than wax ring. Simply because this is a demo installation and we want there to be no mess on the flange when we install our next toilet. Most of the time you do something like the wax ring, a standard wax ring. We also need the flange adapter which comes with, which is going to install and the bowl is going to connect to it. If you are using a plastic flange, you’re going to put the wax ring down on the flange. If you’re using a metal flange you’re, going to put the wax ring up on the flange adapter when you’re tightening it. The only other thing that does not come with, is the plumber’s tape. So you’ll want to make sure that you have some of that for connecting everything up.
Now in order to make sure that your Toto Neorest RH is going to fit, you’ll need to measure from the center of the flange hole, to the back of the wall. We need at least 12 inches, and that’s what you would call a 12 inch rough-in. Here you can see we have about 11 and a half. But, we have a trim that’s about three quarters (¾) of an inch So if we don’t take the trim into account, we have our 12 inches plus a little bit. The rough-in is to the back wall, not to the trim. The other important thing is to make sure that your water inlet is located properly. We have a female inlet here, half inch. If you had a standard water supply you could always use a female to female adapter, in order to get that female half inch to screw into.
Now that we’ve talked about the parts that you’re going to need for the bowl install, let’s take the first step of that bowl install. That would be getting the water supply set up. You might have a water supply that comes out of the floor or out of the wall. If it’s in either of those two locations, you’ll want to make sure that it is properly positioned, in the floor or the wall so that it does not get in the way of the toilet bowl itself. As you can see here, these are the measurements that you would want for a floor install and these are the measurements you would want for a wall install, as it relates to the positioning of the water supply. All right so now that we’ve made sure that we have the proper positioning set up, let’s take a look at the hardware we’re going to use. This piece of hardware would be used if we had a floor supply, and we wanted a little bit of additional height on that floor supply. We’re not going to use this, because we are coming out of the wall. So what we’re going to do is, we’re going to take some plumbers tape or teflon tape, most plumbers tape or teflon tape is white (this is blue) so don’t let that throw you for a loop. We’re going to go ahead and put some on the thread here. For those of you who are new to plumbing, this just helps with keeping leaks from occurring. Once we’ve got that teflon tape on, again you’ll want to pick up your own it does not come with, we’re just going to put it into the water supply. You want to connect it so that the thread here is pointing out. That is your shut off, so it’s important to be able to have access to it. This whole piece is going to be sitting inside the toilet so you’re going to take a panel off to access it; but if it’s not facing out you’re going to have a hard time accessing it. This T-connector is going to connect on the bottom side here. This water supply and this water supply, are going to be the two water supplies used for providing water to the toilet, and then also to the bidet. Don’t forget to put this little blue O-ring into the top, because this is going to allow us to make sure that there’s no leaks on this side of things as well. Once said and done, we do want both of these to be facing forward, like so.
Now that we’ve got the water supply installed, let’s talk about installing the flange adapter to the flange into the floor. For starters, we want to make sure that we have all the hardware we need for that installation. This comes with the unit when you purchase it. This mounting hardware also comes with the unit, when you purchase it. This hardware comes with the flange itself, when you originally install it. Pick it up at a local hardware store, all of that comes together, so you’ll want to save this from the flange. Then you’ll want a wax ring, when you’re getting ready to install this that’s something else you’ll need to purchase. Again, the wax ring goes down on the bottom side of the flange adapter if the flange is metal, if the flange is plastic, you’ll want to put it down on the flange itself and then mount this on top.
The one other thing that we have here that we’ll need, is the mounting template. This template tells us where to drill holes, to install the flange adapter. We’re going to go ahead and put this on, we’re going to go ahead and get this all lined up as square as possible. The installation instructions do say to tape this template down, so you can do that. In this scenario we’re just going to drill our holes, but you could tape it down to make sure that it is all set in place when you’re doing this. When you’re originally pulling this out of the box, there is going to be this perforated edge that you’ll need to take out, in order to put it on, so just keep that in mind. Now that we have it all lined up, we’ll go ahead and drill our holes.
Now that our holes are drilled, we can take off this template and we’re ready to install our flange adapter. Now what we’re going to do is install the flange adapter, onto the flange. Again, wax ring on the flange itself if you’re dealing with plastic, on the flange adapter if the flange is metal. You’re going to want to take your existing flange hardware, put it into these grooves, put the flange on top. We’re going to end up tightening these down. There’s two pieces to tightening the flange adapter down, we have these guys here, and then we also have the four screw holes that we drilled out, just a little bit ago. Now Toto provides you with six of these screws, we only need four. They also provide us with four anchors. In our scenario we’re not going to be using the anchors, but if you need the anchors they do come with your purchase. We’re going to go ahead and get those off the screen for the time being. Now what we’re going to do is, we’re going to screw this flange adapter down. These bolts with the hex head, are going to go into these holes back here. We’re going to go ahead and put these washers down on top. Now, when we tighten this down, these screws will be available to tighten the bowl onto. Let’s go ahead and grab some of these, make sure we get them in the holes we drilled. Now that we have those in, we’re going to go ahead and tighten those screws down. As you saw when I went to tighten these, I did stagger it. I tightened one down on this end loosely, one down on this end loosely, and then tighten them. The idea behind that is to make sure this sits even, and you’re not torquing one down before getting the other side tight. Now that we’ve done that, we’re going to go ahead and tighten these guys down. The first part of this of course, can be hand done, but we are going to need a wrench to finish the process. The other important thing to note here, is that you want this whole plastic piece to sit as flush as possible with the floor. We can see in the back it’s sitting flush, but obviously up here in the front it’s not yet. So we know that we have quite a bit more tightening to do on these, in order to get to that point. You can see we’re getting pretty close, it’s tight here on this side but it’s up still over here, so let’s go ahead and finish that. All right I think that’s about as tight as we’re gonna get it so now let’s go ahead and install the toilet.
This rubber ring is going to connect to the porcelain hole, in the bottom of the toilet and that’s going to be our seal, along with this seal that lets everything work appropriately. It’s also important to note that this is your manual flush. This toilet offers a pump assisted flush, but it also offers a manual flush. When you have a standard toilet and you pour water into that toilet to get it to flush, this does the same thing. It’s basically forcing water down the drain and by doing that, offering you a manual flush without having to dump water. It’s not going to be nearly as powerful as the pump assisted flush, but if you have a random power outage here and there, it’s still nice to have a manual flush to deal with.
Now when we bring this toilet up, we’re going to know whether or not it is in this rubber seal. If it’s not properly positioned, we’re going to feel that it’s rocking back and forth not sitting flat. As soon as it’s in this rubble rubber seal, it’s going to sit more flat. There are holes here and here, and these holes are going to be used to go over these bolts. You notice how it just slid into place. I was finagling with it for the last couple of minutes and it was not setting flat. You’ll notice as soon as it got into the proper position it set flat, completely flat in the back. Before it was not flat back here, and now it is. The other important thing to note is because these screws come through the porcelain here. If your porcelain is at an angle when you’re trying to put it on, and these screws are hitting the bottom side of this porcelain, it’s not going to set flat in that scenario either, because it can’t. Make sure that the screws are coming through the hole and as you finagle it into place, it is going to set flat once it’s properly installed.
The next step is using these last pieces of hardware to attach the bowl portion to the floor. We want to make sure that the bowl is in the correct position, left to right. This bowl seems pretty centered to me, so we’re going to go ahead and call it good. Then i’m just gonna put the washer down, put the nut on top and do the same thing for the other side. Looking at it from this angle, we can see why it’s so important to have the water supply in the proper position. Previously this water supply was up here, that’s why we have this patched, for a prior installation. You can see that if we had it placed up here, it would not be in a position where it would fit inside of this area… specifically designed to house the water supply. Similarly, if you’re coming up from the floor, if you didn’t use this adapter that comes with, you would not clear this ceramic ridge. The adapter allows you to get high enough that you clear that ridge, when installing these from the floor. That’s why that’s an important piece of the puzzle.
Now that we have the bowl installed and tightened down here on the back on either side, it’s time to install the seat. Pieces we’ll need for this of course will be the seat, these two bolts to tighten the seat down. These bolts have a washer lock washer, and I guess a really wide washer on them, so that’s kind of what you’ll be looking for on this bolt. There are two of those. This is a battery compartment that helps to power the flush a little bit, we’ll look at that here in a second as well. Then we have a cover, as well as two side covers, which we’ll talk about all of that here in a minute. Let’s go ahead and grab the seat out. Before we do, this plastic piece on the top has two little grooves in it, that the top seat snaps into. When we put the seat on top, all of this hardware is going to fit into the seat itself and the seat is going to snap into those two clips. So we’re going to have to kind of push down to make sure they snap in. When they snap in, the front will be tight and then we’ll just need to get it attached on the back. Here’s the seat, we can see a couple of interesting things about the seat. First of all, we have this rubber ring that keeps anything from getting behind it. We also have this huge opening here in the bottom, that works to house the electronics that are sitting up there. You can also see these two little clips, which you can see moving in and out, when I push in on the side here. Those clip into the slots that we just talked about a moment ago. All right so let’s go ahead and put this in place. It’s not sitting flat but that’s because those were not snapped in, and you could hear it snap when I push down. Now it’s snapped in and the front is very tight, the back still needs to be tightened, but we’re going to get to that here in a moment.
One super crucial thing to note, if you don’t do this properly you will completely ruin your new Neorest and you’ll have to get a replacement. That is how you connect these up, we have a couple of connections here, a couple of connections here. These need to be connected without the unit connected to power. If you connect these while the unit is connected to power, it is going to fry the board that’s in the main seat. You’ll have to get the entire top portion of this replaced by Toto. Incredibly crucial that when you connect these, you connect these before you plug it in. If you’ve already plugged it in and forgotten to connect these, unplug it, let it sit for a little bit (i’d say five minutes) and then plug these in. Do not plug those in while it’s connected to power, or you will ruin the seat.
We also have this little guy, you’ll notice there’s not a place to connect this little guy. This is not something you connect to anything, we get a lot of questions about this little fella, he is simply there for diagnostic reasons. So if you end up having a seat that has issues and Toto sends out a Toto rep to come out and look at it, he might connect a tool to this little piece to get diagnostic data from the seat. Nothing we need to connect to that, so we’re good there.
What we’re going to do now is, we’re going to attach the back of the seat (remember the front’s already connected). We’re going to attach the back of the seat to the bowl. Now that we’ve connected these, without the toilet being connected to power, we’re going to slide it in. You can see there’s a little slot here, we can snap that into that slot and then turn it around and there’s a little groove. What we can do is, we can slide this piece into that groove and that basically holds it in place. Then we just shove all this up in here like that, get it out of the way and kind of hear it snap into place there. Then there’s a little plastic door that goes on… like so. There’s also a little screw, that goes right in here, that tightens this door and keeps it in place. That holds the door in place. We need to take the door off, we do need to undo that screw to pull it out.
Now that we’ve got that screw in place, again we want to make sure this is tight. We’ll tighten up the other side here in a moment. We also want to connect the water lines. This water line right here and the next water line right down here. Take the plastic cap out first of course. We can tighten those slightly, with the crescent wrench if we’d like. Now that we have those tightened, we’re good to go on that front.
Now we’re going to install the battery pack, two double A (AA) batteries go into this battery pack. It’s used for the manual flush, it connects to the toilet right here and then we can just install the battery pack itself, right up like that.
This manual flush, we don’t really want looped through there, but this has a spring in it, giving it that spring power. You can hear it operating that lever or that paddle inside the flange adapter. It’s also got this little hook here, which hooks it into its resting place. Now we’re going to take this, there’s a label on it outside so we know that this goes on the inside. There’s a spring here, we can hear it operating the flapper in the flange adapter. There’s also a little hook here which hooks it into the toilet. Let’s go and do that next. One thing that you’ll notice as i’m doing this, there’s not a lot of room back here. It says 12 inch rough-in, you do need 12 inches… 11 and a half is probably not going to cut it. Let’s make sure we have the outside facing out… and there we go. It just snaps into place and now that’s our manual flush.
Now that we have the water supplies connected, the electrical connected, and the manual flush connected.. We have these back panels that we can install. We can install the panels right here. One of the things to note there’s this little tool, with velcro on it. This tool allows you to turn the water inlet on and off. That’s your water inlet on and off right there, right on the inside of this panel. The panel just goes into place like so… You’ll notice also that this connects as well with velcro. There’s velcro here and there’s velcro on the inside of each of these. You simply snap it into place. This then can come off if you need to access the water inlet or the manual flush. Let’s go ahead and flip this around, we’re going to follow the same process over here. You’ll notice there’s a little plastic piece that this is connecting into. So while it’s loose and it doesn’t feel like it’s screwing in, it actually is. You see I can pull down and nothing happens, it’s because that plastic piece has some give to it. The plastic piece has some give to it, so that we’re not we’re not over tightening it. We’ll go ahead and tighten this down, so that it’s flush. Now we have the Toto Neorest RH installed, all we have to do is mount the remote, plug the unit in, and of course turn on the water supply and check for leaks.
Now we have installed the Toto Neorest RH, we’ve turned on the water supply, and it’s time to plug the unit in. Of course with turning on the water supply, we have to check for leaks, so don’t forget to do that. Plugging it in we see the lights come on, we see our power light, our seat light, and our eco light flash for a moment. We also got the little busy signal that comes up here, where it’s a blue ring with lights on it. We’ve seen all those boot up, we know we’re set to go there, everything’s good. If these lights are flashing consistently right after plugging in, then that’s probably a sign that something’s off. One of the problems that could happen if you’re seeing these lights flash, is maybe you didn’t connect the seat to the base of the unit, over here on the side where we connected the pieces earlier. That’s a possibility, but we can see that things are up and running.
The next step is to install the remote control. A couple of things to note, the bottom of the wall mount has holes in it here and here, which will screw into the bottom of the remote. If you want the remote to stay in place you won’t have access to the back of the remote if you do that; But it will keep that remote from being taken out of the wall mount. We’re going to go ahead and start by putting the batteries in. These batteries do come with it, so those are not an additional purchase and now we’re going to put that on. Well we can see right off the bat we have the option to select a language. I cannot read the first two, but i’m assuming they are Japanese and Chinese, if i had to guess. I’m going to go ahead and go down to option number three, which is english and english language is selected, so we’re good there. Now we have our normal options on the back which we’ll talk about later, let’s go and put that down for the time being. It does come with three anchors for the drywall, if you’re putting it into drywall. Here in this scenario we are just going straight into wood, since we’re in a demo unit, I’m going to go ahead and drill a hole here. Now let’s go ahead and put the wall mount on. We’re going to put our first screw in and let’s go ahead and get it slightly snug, so we have some wiggle room. We’ll pull out a level and make sure that it’s level. With it level, let’s go ahead and drill our next hole. Now what i’m going to do is i’m going to go ahead and put this on the back. Now that i’ve got my two holes to keep it level, let’s go ahead and pull this guy out and let’s install it with this backdrop (since we don’t have to worry about leveling it out anymore). We’re gonna go and put this here, and put this guy here. Depending on your bathroom, the height that you install this at will really depend. Because this is a demo unit we’re installing it a little bit lower. In your bathroom you might install it higher, so no need to focus on where we’re installing it. There we go that’s on there pretty tight, let’s drill out our last hole… and there we are. Now if we put in the remote, on the back of the remote we have our different more advanced options; Things like water temperature, seat temperature and drier temperature, as well as a variety of other features which we will talk about in our full review video.
Thank you so much for watching our video today. Where we walked through the installing of the Toto Neorest RH, from start to finish. Don’t forget to subscribe to our channel. So that you can see additional videos where we talk about the features of the Too Neorest RH, troubleshooting, and talk about many other integrated, bidet toilet combinations that are on the market today. Also feel free to check out our video description, for links to the Toto Neorest RH. Our in-depth quiz that walks you through finding the perfect unit for your needs.
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